My Modern Working Wardrobe: The Sushi Master

The man behind London’s Michelin-starred Endo At The Rotunda sushi restaurant discusses the importance of attention to detail, why you should wear clothes with “purpose and consideration” and the legacy of Japanese culture on his own sense of style.

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Few foods require the meticulous attention to detail that sushi does. So much so, that we often think the personal characteristics required to master the discipline transcend mere expertise in the preparation. Put another way, it’s as much about your state of mind and attitude as it is your knife skills.

There’s a Japanese word – shokunin – that encapsulates this perfectly. Though it’s more usually translated as ‘artisan’, the English doesn’t quite capture its fuller meaning: one who devotes themselves entirely to the pursuit of perfection.

If you’ve been lucky enough to sample the delicate fare dreamed up by world-renowned sushi master Endo Kazutoshi, then you’ll be in no doubt that the word applies to him. In his eponymous restaurant, Endo At The Rotunda (or ‘Sushi In The Clouds’ to quote the establishment’s description) nothing, from the hand-finished 200-year-old Hinoki wood counter to each of the 20 courses served as part of the omakase tasting experience, falls short of perfection.

Little surprise, then, that Endo approaches his wardrobe in much the same way as he approaches a plate. “[When it comes to clothes], have a gentle attitude and wear with purpose and consideration,” he says. “You should be understated but smart and never compromise on quality… If you look good, you will feel good.”

You should be understated but smart and never compromise on quality… If you look good, you will feel good.

Endo Kazutoshi

It’s Japan’s melting pot of sartorial influences that has guided his own personal sense of style. “I grew up in urban Japan and consider myself very Japanese, but like Japanese style, I am influenced by a lot of other cultures,” he explains. “Modern Japanese fashion has been influenced by British, European and American culture, and now we have a hybrid style.”

When it comes to picking out a Modern Working Wardrobe, a suit, of course, isn’t the most practical option when preparing food, so Endo chooses a classic kimono instead. “Comfort and quality is essential as we work long hours,” he says. Functional it may be, but it’s also a garment that implies the same degree of smartness that a suit does in Western culture. “It's traditional for omakase chefs to wear them; my master wore a kimono. It is formal out of respect for our guests.”

Cooking is a form of creative expression, just like fashion. I never want to cook on my days off, but at least I can still express myself through what I wear.

Endo Kazutoshi

When he’s not in the kitchen, however, it’s a different story. “I plan and think carefully about what I wear in and outside the restaurant. Because I’m disciplined inside the restaurant with what I wear, on my days off, I have a chance to explore different styles,” Endo explains. “Cooking is a form of creative expression, just like fashion. I never want to cook on my days off, but at least I can still express myself through what I wear.”

That’s how he feels about Paul Smith’s Modern Working Wardrobe collection. “It makes me feel stylish, comfortable and energised… It’s very adaptable. I could wear it out dining in high-end restaurants, business meetings or meeting friends for a pint in the pub,” he says of the pieces he wore when we visited him at Endo At The Rotunda. “It’s not overly smart, but it’s formal enough. Perfect for flexible city life.”

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